Laidback luxury meets rustic charm at this leading outback getaway 

Want to experience the Australian outback without sacrificing creature comforts?

Set against the backdrop of Longreach’s sweeping plains, Saltbush Retreat delivers the perfect balance.

This comfortable escape is steeped in history, warmth, and relaxation.

The outdoor bath terrace is the biggest drawcard

After checking into Saltbush Retreat in Longreach, I make a beeline for the outdoor bath terrace, located less than a minute’s toddle from my room.

Available to guests staying in the 4.5-star Homestead Stables or the 4-star Slab Huts, the bath terrace is comprised of three deep, clawfoot tubs, positioned on an alfresco concrete deck.

Surrounded by weeping paperbarks, their graceful foliage filtering the outback sun, the baths offer a memorable way to wash off the red dust from the day’s adventures.

Each bath has a side-table made from a sawn-off log, so you can enjoy a cup of tea (or something stronger) as you soak.

Pamper packs, containing a bottle of sparkling water, slippers, loofahs, chocolates, bath salts, and coffee and tea, can be purchased if you wish to ramp up the level of luxury.

You can’t book the space for your exclusive use, so be prepared to bathe alongside other travellers. (Think of it as a good opportunity to share your road trip tales.)

And – please, please, please – do wear swimmers when you sink into one of the baths, because the terrace is a communal facility, with no privacy screens.

Saltbush Retreat is one of 24 inclusions along Queensland’s newly-christened Wellness Way.

This is a trail of springs, pools, spas and bathhouses, most of which (like Saltbush Retreat) draw geothermic waters from the Great Artesian Basin.

Longreach is located in central-west Queensland, about 2 hours by air, or 26 hours by rail aboard the Spirit of the Outback, from Brisbane.

First glance at Saltbush Retreat

I’ve seen the exterior of Saltbush Retreat many times during trips to Longreach.

From the road, it looks like a small, boutique property, or perhaps even a roadside motel.

But though the street frontage is small, the property is set on a sprawling 2.5 hectares near the centre of town.

It was bought and developed by Damien and Judy Kennedy and David (Judy’s brother) and Tanya Neal in 2018.

They sold the property to the current (undisclosed) owners in 2022.

David and Tanya Neal now operate nearby Mitchell Grass Retreat. Stay tuned for an upcoming feature on that retreat too.

Design features at Saltbush Retreat

Saltbush Retreat showcases Queensland’s pioneering history while providing contemporary luxury, making it the perfect base camp from which to explore the region.

There are a range of accommodation options to suit different budgets.

At the highest end are 9 Homestead Stables rooms positioned all in a row, with parking out back.

With rustic touches such as Tilley lamps and lashings of local timber, the Homestead Stables rooms have been designed to replicate the appearance of an outback stableboy’s accommodation.

In addition, clustered in a circle, are 11 Slab Huts reminiscent of a pioneering settler’s homestead.

A handful of one- and two-bedroom cabins are also available, but have no access to the outdoor bath terrace.

My room at Saltbush Retreat

I’m in one of nine Homestead Stables which, as the name suggests, have a horsey theme, from the split front doors to the custom-made trough basins.

I was assigned to Stable 8. Open the door and you’re immediately struck by the utilitarian air. A dustpan and brush hangs by the front door; the bedhead is fashioned from an old timber gate; and a lampshade is woven from barbed wire.

But it offers ultra-luxe comfort too. Inside, there’s a kitchenette with a small wooden table for meals, a lounge area with a leather sofa for viewing shows on the flat screen TV, a queen bed made up with crisp cotton linen and a caramel-coloured duvet and two bunk beds with a ladder.

The floor is made of cracked concrete and softened with a conspicuous cowhide rug. The concrete walls are set with tin and timber accents throughout.

The ensuite bathroom is split into privacy-enhancing shower and toilet zones, with the twin sinks separating the two. It is amply stocked with Hunter products.

There are minimal windows which, with the air conditioning, keeps temperatures cool. However, it also means that the room tends to be a bit dark and gloomy, even with the lights on.

Outside, you’ll find stool and bench seating, which is perfect for taking in the early morning or late afternoon sun.

The published rate for Homestead Stables is $520 (for two guests, staying two nights).

What is there to eat and drink at Saltbush Retreat?

There’s no onsite restaurant, but you can order a continental or gourmet breakfast hamper to cook in your fully equipped kitchen, which has hotplates, a microwave, and Nespresso coffee maker.

Cheese and antipasto platters (with or without wine) as well as BBQ and salad hampers may also be purchased.

Upon check-in, you’ll also be given a list of restaurants in town. However, bear in mind that not all of them are open year-round.

Many locals claim The Birdcage Hotel is your best year-round choice, with its a range of pub classics such as chicken parmi(giana), bangers and mash(ed) potato and beef burgers.

More seasonal is Harry’s Restaurant, which is improbably located upstairs at Longreach Motor Inn and serves some of the state’s best steaks. 

My favourite thing at Saltbush Retreat

Beyond the outdoor bath terrace? It would have to be the brisk efficiency of the air-conditioning.

Longreach is largely a seasonal destination, with its peak visitor period in winter (June to August).

But I visited during summer, when daytime temperatures rose to above 40 degrees Celsius, so my room offered a welcome respite from the searing heat.

In conditions like these, it’s difficult to do anything outdoors between 10am and 4pm.

This meant my days were comprised of early starts, followed by afternoon naps in the air-conditioning and then more evening adventures when things had cooled down (a little).

My one gripe

Late one afternoon, I headed down to the pool, located beside reception, to find it heaving with small, noisy children.

While this might be a welcome discovery if you’re travelling as a family, it’s less so when you’re a solo traveller wanting to simply cool off at the end of a long, hot day.

It could have been a function of the time of year. When I visited, distance education students had converged for a block of face-to-face tuition.

What’s with all the … HORSESHOES?

Honestly, Saltbush Retreat does lay it on thick, but most guests love it.

From the towel rack made using horseshoes, to the horseshoe hooks and riding crops on the walls, you’re constantly reminded of the town’s history of horse-driven transport and its connections to stockmen, rodeo and equestrian culture.

For example, the Cobb & Co stagecoach service ceased here in 1924. However, visitors can still get a taste of what it was like along the original Longreach-Windorah mail route, through tour and accommodation provider Outback Pioneers’ Cobb & Co Stagecoach Experience.

Who’s in the ‘neigh’-bourhood?

(See what I did there?)

Although located outside the CBD, you’re in easy walking distance of key Longreach attractions such as the Australian Stockman’s Hall of Fame and Qantas Founders Museum.

Many tour operators, such as Outback Aussie Tours, will also collect you from your door.

If you’re driving, all Longreach attractions are within easy reach, and you’re well-positioned to explore neighbouring towns such as Winton, Ilfracombe and Isisford.

Sustainability at Saltbush Retreat

The design of Saltbush Retreat reflects the unique textures and tones of the Queensland outback.

Construction used natural materials that enhance aesthetic appeal but also reduce the environmental impact associated with construction and maintenance.