The light is beginning to fade when I arrive at The Banya bathhouse, located in the laid-back suburb of Mullumbimby, in the Northern Rivers region of New South Wales. I change into swimmers and heat for the warmth of the wood-fired sauna, breathing in deeply to allow the gentle heat to penetrate. Then it’s time for a brisk and bracing rinse beneath a cascading bucket of ice water to prepare for the invigorating plunge into the icy depths of the 9°C cold pool. After that, I slip with relief into the embrace of a warm magnesium pool. Gazing upwards, I see billowing clouds transform into hues reminiscent of spun sugar, I anticipate the forthcoming full body massage.
Located in Mullumbimby’s laid-back main street, The Banya is built on the bones of a 1920s bank. It’s a beautifully made-over space with some quirky touches – for instance, there are still possum footprints embedded in the century-old bricks and some of the original bank safes remain. The Banya is as much about relaxing and socialising as it is about wellness. Owner and local publican Brenden Lawless wanted to create a European-style social experience. It was so-named because a “banya” was originally a Russian steam bath with a wood stove.
The once over
First timer? Vintage lettering proudly proclaims the position of The Banya from the street. Step inside to pick up your smartly striped sage and white towels from the reception desk and have staff show you around. You’ll walk through a dining area first, with tables one side and banquettes the other. “We like people to be dry and dressed in here,” the staffer tells me. No wonder: this stylish space is all parquetry floors, soaring ceilings and Art Deco touches. Outside, in an enclosed courtyard-style space, you’ll find the “wet” spaces along with change rooms.
Facilities at The Banya
The bathhouse boasts a lap pool, two hot mineral pools, a wood-fired sauna, a steam room and a cold plunge pool. There are also bathrooms on this level, stocked with locally produced Mukti products. Up a flight of stairs, there are five massage treatment rooms plus a rooftop sundeck. The emerald and white tiled spas and lap pool and the collection of potted palms and fairy lights make this a very photogenic space, so be prepared to see some influencer action. Don’t be alarmed if you hear screams – that’s just bathers pulling on the cord of the buckets that dunk iced water over you. (The thermal shock from the sudden cold is said to invigorate the senses, tighten the skin, and promote relaxation.)
Spa menu
The Banya has a super stripped-back spa menu – with just the option to add a 60-minute massage (or not) to your bathhouse session. That’s it. Relaxation, deep tissue or pregnancy massages are all catered for. Standalone 60-minute massage services are available but a 90-minute bathhouse session plus a 60-minute massage provides the best value.
Must do at The Banya
Enhance your experience further by savouring a snack or drink post-soak. I recommend the oysters with finger lime mignonette and the kingfish ceviche. If you want to feel virtuous, opt for one of the healthy smoothies or juices. Alternatively, there’s a wine and cocktail list, with inclusions like the Bloody Banya, which contains tomato, cucumber and basil, so it’s practically a salad!
Where to stay
From the front steps of The Banya, you’re 13 minutes by road from boutique hotel Blackbird Byron, an adults-only retreat perched high in the Byron hinterland. Blackbird contains free-flowing, indoor-outdoor communal spaces that capture the bohemian aesthetic of this part of Australia’s east coast, with ample space to curl up on recycled sun loungers, hunker under the shade of floral print beach umbrellas, or swim laps in a 10-metre magnesium pool. The accommodation is comprised of a trio of detached pavilions with stark brutalist façades. However, step inside and you’ll find a light-infused sanctuary with linen-dressed king-sized bed, burnished concrete floor adorned with woven rattan rugs and binoculars, a celestial map, and a hiking guide beckon guests to explore the environment around them.
Another great alternative is the hippie luxe Sun Ranch located a 20 minute drive away. Also in the hinterland, but located on more than 55 acres of regenerated farmland Sun Ranch rocks a retro vibe. It offers a laid back ultra-chic retreat dedicated to the Californian ranch houses of the 1970s. Morning yoga classes are offered daily. Read One Mile’s review of Sun Ranch.
Spice it up
In April 2024, The Banya launched a book club! It takes place on the Monday of each month.
Celebrity spa-goers
Australian supermodel Elle Macpherson visited in 2024 and described The Banya as “magical” and “infused with Australian warmth”.
Service at The Banya
Reception staff seem straight from Byron central casting, with long blonde locks, tanned limbs and big smiles. My masseur spoke in a soothing whisper, and her skills sent me straight off into a blissful sleep.
In the neighborhood
If you’re still peckish after your time at The Banya, Milk & Honey Wine Bar & Pizzeria is a short walk down the road. It serves wood-fired pizzas and other Italian fare, with a drinks list featuring small, sustainable and minimal intervention wines. When I visited, I opted for one of the specials – a pizza which saw a base of hand-stretched, 48-hour fermented sourdough topped with fresh local prawns, “cheese” made from macadamia and miso, and lemon-infused red chilli sauce which had a kick like a mule.
Logistical details
Mullumbimby is 20 minutes by road from Byron Bay. There’s easy street parking out the front of The Banya and in surrounding streets. If you have time before your bathhouse session, take some time to explore. I love this town, with its organic farmers markets, bamboo clothing stores and penchant for tie dye and dreadlocks.
The wash up
I found the change rooms and lockers a bit cramped, but this might have been a function of how busy the bathhouse was when I visited.
The Banya is perfect for …
The Banya meets you wherever you are and whoever you’re with – so long as you’re over 18 years old. I felt completely comfortably visiting as a solo traveller, but I also spotted couples and small groups of friends.
Summing up
Enjoy the sunshine and small talk for yourself. The Banya is open 9am till late, 7 days.
