There’s no rainforest without the rain, I repeat, like a mantra, as I navigate a section of slippery rock on the Caves track in the Binna Burra section of Lamington (Woonoongoora) National Park. Our original plan was to tackle the 10-kilometre Lower Bellbird track, but we arrived at the trailhead to find that the inclement weather has closed off that possibility, and so we’re setting our sights on the 7-kilometre Caves track instead. There’s a lot of steps involved. Though our thighs will be burning by the time we reach the end, it’s just one small stretch of an estimated 160 kilometres of walking trails through this ancient rainforest.
The rain continues to fall, casting a fine mist over the surrounding jungle. After ploughing up and down a series of hand-cut steps, we reach the Kweebani Cave, a sweeping wall of volcanic rock, where the indigenous Yugambeh people used to gather. Here they’d gather, shelter and, according to archaeological records, cook food over fire. Perhaps that’s why I can sense the faint smell of ash in the air. We forge on, as the canopy thickens, completely enclosing us at times. Eventually, we emerge at the trailhead near heritage-listed Binna Burra Lodge. Binna Burra accommodation comes in a range of forms to suit all budgets, but I’m excited to be staying in one of its Tiny Wild Houses for the first time.
First glance Binna Burra Lodge has been through a lot in the last few years. In 2019, during the opening act of Australia’s Black Summer bushfires, the original lodge building, its 42 rustic cabins, and a dozen neighbouring properties were razed to the ground. The surviving sky lodge buildings, campsites and new safari tents opened a year later. Binna Burra’s latest offering, six Tiny Wild Houses, opened in April 2023. Are they the best accommodation in Binna Burra? I think so. Perched on the edge of the Bellbird clifftop, they’re designed for adult-only stays. From the designated Tiny Wild Houses car park a short walk up the hill, these dwellings look … well, tiny. But I’m to be reminded that the best things come in small packages.
Design I’ve stayed in tiny homes that feel cramped, confined and claustrophobic. Binna Burra’s Tiny Wild Houses aren’t among them. Although the space is compact, there’s sufficient room to walk around three sides of the queen bed – so no climbing over your partner to get to the loo in the middle of the night. There were hooks on which to hang bags, jackets, and hats. There’s a covered back deck to combat cabin fever. And the setting, with its vertiginous views, amplifies the sense of spaciousness. Each individual “house” is surrounded by landscaping, with frosted glass on the front door and bathroom, along with a screen on the back deck, to sustain a sense of seclusion.
The room The most compelling feature of these Tiny Wild Houses (published rate $350) is the floor to ceiling glass walls which offer ever-shifting views of the Ships Stern Range. There are blackout blinds on the east-facing windows in front of the bed, so you don’t need to wake with the sun unless you want to. (You’ll probably want to.) In addition to the queen bed, there’s a two-seater couch, a well-equipped kitchenette with Nespresso pod machine, and a bathroom containing shower, sink and toilet. The textiles are chunky; the palette earthy; the mood refined but relaxed. After a hike in hot, humid conditions, the reverse cycle air-conditioning is a very welcome feature.
Food and drink Unless you’re self-catering, the Binna Burra Tea House is main dining hub. It’s open for breakfast, lunch, dinner, seven days a week. For a post-hike lunch, we chose the beef burgers and locally-made Eighth Day Cider. For dinner, we opted for the two-course set menu ($55 per person), which provides exceptional value rather than an exclusive fine dining experience – pear and feta salad and native bush-spiced squid, followed by oven-baked chicken breast and prawn and chorizo linguini. Three-course menus ($70) are also available. Nearby, Groom’s Cottage and Bushwalker’s Bar is open Friday to Sunday for drinks and bar snacks.
Personal favourite While there’s a few different accommodation types at Binna Burra, these views are an absolute standout. Even on a misty, rainy day, I could still make out the jagged ridgelines of the mountains and the majestic curves of the surrounding valleys. I watched it, literally for hours.
Gripe Really, it’s difficult to find fault with these tiny treasures. On a wet weather hike, you might pick up a leech, and not discover it until you’re tucked up in bed. (Yes, this happened to me and, let me tell you, the peace of the night was certainly shattered for a few minutes upon its discovery.) But leeches go with the territory here. They ease off in the colder months.
What’s with all the … PARROTS Or, more specifically, the colourful parrot in a pair of boots which forms the centrepiece of the Binna Burra logo? I’m yet to have it confirmed, but this seems to reference the two main preoccupations here – hiking and birdwatching. Binna Burra is a twitcher’s paradise, with an estimated 130 species of birds, including the logo’s crimson rosella. King parrots, yellow-tailed black cockatoos and near-threatened Albert’s lyrebird can also be sighted, though I’ve only spotted the latter once, again on a rainy day, when there weren’t many people on the trails.
Neighbourhood You’re in the heart of Lamington National Park which has an estimated 160 kilometres of walking trails through ancient Gondwanan rainforest. Just nearby is an adventure activities precinct currently under construction. When complete, it will include a via ferrata (climbing route attached to the cliff face).
Sustainability Tiny homes are grounded in the sustainability movement, so it seems odd that these little shacks remain on mains power. However, I’m told Binna Burra has plans to convert them to solar power over time. The new lodge expected to open in 2025 will also have a sustainability focus.
To book visit the Binna Burra Lodge website.
