There’s nothing like a salty margarita to get an overnight stay started off right, and so it was when we set foot in the Cowboy Bar upon arrival at Sun Ranch.
We’d crossed the border earlier that day, driving two hours’ south of Queensland’s capital Brisbane, to this rural idyll located in the Northern Rivers region of New South Wales.
It was a hot, humid day, with a shimmering heat haze rising from the bitumen in front of us, and the car’s air-conditioning refusing to cooperate.
But as the landscape unfolded in undulating green hills that stretched towards a distant ocean horizon, I felt the temperature (and tension) start to subside.
We passed a herd of fat cattle grazing contentedly at the turnoff to Coopers Shoot Road and crossed a babbling creek to reach a winding gravel road.
Seconds later, Sun Ranch rolled into view, with its wood-fired sauna and cold plunge pool perched on a wooden platform above a swimmable dam immediately on our left.
We also noted plenty of shady spots to roll out a picnic rug.
But getting a complimentary welcome drink at the Cowboy Bar was our first port of call.
We took our glasses up to the 25-metre mineral pool that’s perched high on the hill.
The breeze has picked up; Cyclone Kirrily is passing over Far North Queensland, and the effects can be found even this far south, with spray whipping off the water and the straw umbrellas starting to spin like pin wheels.
But we sit on the sun-warmed bleachers, sip our drinks and feel perfectly at peace.
First glance Sun Ranch opened in September 2023 to glowing reviews after invited media were treated to a 36-hour hoopla involving horse riding, sound healing, yoga classes, wine tastings, and convivial poolside gatherings. Things have settled since then, with the atmosphere more relaxed retreat than frenzied New Age rave. The original 1980s farmhouse that stood was carefully transformed over two years intoThe Rambler Long House, which now contains four pool suites and a private suite, plus communal spaces. There are also six off-grid barns positioned high on the ridgeline of the 55-acre property.
Design The most notable features of Sun Ranch’s design are bold, boundary-pushing colour choices, along with bespoke and one-of-a-kind furnishings. The hexagonal hub of the original home became The Lair, a sunken lounge with sculptural fireplace, where spiral terracotta meets pink marble, rich velvets, reclaimed oak cabinetry and bronze trims. The blood red walls and low-slung furniture of The Whiskey Lounge flows into an al fresco undercover dining space. The Cowboy Bar is also here. Artist Nathan Pickering hand-painted the signage throughout, including the doors and the giant archway, while local artist Lisa LaPointe created the chunky mugs which can be found in rooms and elsewhere on the ranch.
The room We stayed in The Rattler, one of four pool suites. Rates start at $650 per room, per night, with a two-night minimum. This includes breakfast, daily yoga, a ‘Good Morning hot muffin’ doorstep delivery, and use of all the ranch facilities. Our room was a riot of colour, with deep indigo walls and ceiling and a polished stone floor. There’s a mosaic-tiled bathroom with rainwater shower, with a more subdued palette featuring tones of sand, stone and sky. Down a hallway, past the mini-bar stocked with ethical and local items such as Tony’s Chocolonely confectionary and Byron Bay cookies, there’s a king-sized bed lavishly dressed in olive and beige linen. Out on the semi-private back deck, past a set of pool gates, sun loungers are perched on top of crazy paving, alongside an al fresco shower and direct access to the 15-metre pool.
Food and drink Though a buffet breakfast served in the kitchen is included in the room rate, there’s no restaurant as such at Sun Ranch. Staff can assemble a small range of items such as prosciutto and rockmelon skewers, prawn rolls and sourdough toasties, but these are more suited to poolside snacking, rather than satisfying more substantial appetites. There’s also a couple of share plates serving two (lasagne plus salad, or a cheese and charcuterie board). Those staying in the barns can order BBQ hampers or local pasta packs. Local chefs host “fire feasts” at the property “every other week” but these were not available at the time of our stay.
Personal favourite In addition to the 15-metre pool outside our room, I enjoyed the 25-metre basalt stone pool located 100 metres up the hill. I found the location a little improbable, but according to the founders, it was chosen due to its views. It’s monolithic in design, and gives visitors the sense that it’s emerging from out of the earth.
Gripe The food options are more limited than most guests would expect at this price point. However, there are excellent restaurants located nearby in Byron Bay (15 minutes) or Bangalow (5 minutes).
What’s with all the … RANCH REFERENCES The founders didn’t set out to create an “estate” or a “station” with white glove service and hounds. Rather, they chose the “ranch” concept because it was fun, playful and adventurous. “Although we are not hundreds and thousands of acres like traditional ranches it felt perfect, with the right edge – a little bit country and a little bit rock n roll,” says Julia Ashwood. The overlook “look” delivers a Spaghetti Western and Quentin Tarantino vibe.
Neighbourhood You’re within easy driving distance of both Byron Bay and Bangalow with a range of tours and sights to see.
Sustainability From the timber to the hand soap, sustainability was a key consideration during the property’s development. In addition to the solar and rainwater system, Sun Ranch owners have also planted 10,000 native plants and trees. Further planting in collaboration with Bangalow Koalas is ongoing, while work on restoring tired farmland and surrounding waterways to provide more wildlife habitat is also underway. The ultimate goal is to see silky black cockatoos, wallabies, platypus and koalas frequent the property.
To book visit the Sun Ranch website.
