I’m standing on my beachfront balcony at the Manly Pacific watching an electrical storm roll in.
Each flash of lightning illuminates the Norfolk pines which line the foreshore to one of Australia’s most famous beaches, while thunder competes with pounding waves and sheeting rain.
It’s far from the postcard perfect beach holiday I’d imagined, but when you wash up at a sparkling, remade property like this, with front row seats to a spectacular sound and light show, it’s hard to feel anything but awe.
The next morning, with the skies clearing, I take the picturesque 3.2-kilometre round-trip walk from the sands of Manly to Shelly Beach. The raw primal energy of the ocean is even more palpable in the storm’s aftermath, with its depths stirred and currents rewired.
Signs en route warn of ‘freak waves’ and ‘falling rocks’, but focussing on the sculptures, the sea, the salt spray and the bracing fresh air, there’s a sense of energy and optimism that’s hard to beat.
First glance The Manly Pacific has been around in one form or another since 1982. I attended a conference there once, when it was tired and dated, like a pair of Havaianas left too long in the sun.
Fortunately, a recent $30 million refurbishment has freshened up the façade, turned the 213 rooms into light-drenched cocoons, and added desirable features including a rooftop pool, sundeck and infrared sauna.
Now part of more than 100 boutique hotels belonging to Accor’s MGallery Hotel Collection, the Manly Pacific is suffused with a strong local spirit and links to the area’s rich surfing history.
Design Leading Australian designers Coco Republic have waved their ‘coastal chic’ wands across all eight floors, with light, white spaces, pale blonde wood and travertine stone accents that reflect the acres of sand that lie just across the street.
There’s a delicious sense of space in the hallways, staircases and other common areas, which are furnished minimally and decorated simply with pastel, atmospheric images of surf and sky.
A custom surfboard cultivated by Denny Keogh, one of the pioneering Brookvale Six surfboard shapers, is on display in the interior, anchoring guests to one of many local stories.
The room I’m staying on the seventh floor (Room 722) which is what one staffer calls one of the ‘Daydreamer’ rooms. I step in, on a sweltering hot day, to a palette of gull grey and ice blue, which immediately serves to cool and soothe. However, the standout feature has to be those glorious ocean glimpses.
Anchoring the space is a crisply-made king bed, which is artfully draped with throw rug. Waffle robes hang invitingly in the open wardrobe. There’s a cushioned nook where business travellers can catch up on work – if they can tear themselves away from the window.
The bathroom with rain shower is well-lit, has tiles the subtle colour of sea room, and is amply stocked with Leif products.
For those who really want to dial up the luxe level, there’s The Infinity Residence and nine two-bedroom two-bathroom Coastal Suites which all face the ocean.
Food and drink The hotel’s in-house restaurant, Bistro Manly, describes itself as ‘French bistro inspired’, so you’ll find ‘pommes frites’ rather than ‘French fries’ on the menu. It serves breakfast through to dinner, but with so many other pubs and restaurants dotted around the neighbourhood, you shouldn’t confine yourself to what is, admittedly, the easiest choice.
I dine there on my first night. The waitress warns me that the chargrilled half lobster served with salsa verde, champagne mousseline and those pommes frites is “really large”, but for the price-tag ($96) I really expected more.
The bar adjoining the lobby, 55 North, is an expansive space which, with its playfully mismatched furniture, resembles someone’s private living space. It’s good for a barista-made coffee, cocktail or cold beer. I enjoyed the irreverent spirit and fresh sashimi at nearby Tokyo Joe.
Personal favourite There’s nothing more refreshing than coming back from a hot, sweaty walk, or a sandy, salty swim, to find a dispenser of iced water infused with grapefruit and other citrus waiting for you. You’ll find it to the right of the lifts.
Also kudos to the mini-bar which is stocked with locally made products, including Manly Spirits, Seven Miles Coffee, Gumnut Chocolates and Beachfox Sunscreen. The hotel has also introduced some dog-friendly rooms.
Gripe The concierge desk here is branded ‘Beach Club’ and it advertises a range of activities, including sailing, cycling and stand-up paddleboarding. My planned snorkelling and kayaking was cancelled due to the weather – not much the hotel could do about that – but when I enquired about alternatives, the staff were kind of … vague.
Meditation, for instance, is listed as an option, but the staff member I spoke to didn’t know when, where or how to access it. To her credit, she said she’d find out and text me the details. She did that. I was told to call a certain number, which I did, and left a message. Still waiting on that return call.
What’s with all the … health shots? At least I could pick up a just-squeezed health shot at the concierge desk every morning. The staff have seven different blends on rotation, from the delicious green detox (oranges, apples, kiwifruit, limes, spinach and celery) to the tropical sunrise (mango, pineapple, coconut water, kale, limes and cayenne pepper).
It’s a simple but charming touch. Set against the killer cocktail list at 55 North, it’s also a gentle reminder that all fresh new faces demand a little maintenance and clean, health-conscious living.
Neighbourhood You’re within easy walking distance of everything here, especially the beach, and drinking and dining spots from cheap poke bowl joints to high end seafood restaurants.
If you’re coming from the airport, take the train to Circular Quay, and jump on the ferry to Manly. Honestly, it’s one of the most atmospheric ways to launch a vacay or staycay – and the terrain from the ferry to the hotel through The Corso is mostly flat, making it an easy stroll, even with luggage.
Sustainability There are nods to sustainability in the smarter energy-saving room controls, electric car charging stations and ditching of single-use plastic packaging and toiletries.
Book For more information or to book the Manly Pacific click here.
